To clean this floor, simply use our specially formulated cleaning liquid for lacquered  floors. Alternatively, use a well-wrung mop (water only). We do not recommend using a steam mop or any other solutions on our floors.

The surface immediately beneath a Woodpecker natural wood floor must be in good structural condition, free from damp rot, fungal or insect infestation, and contaminating residues. It must be flat with uneven areas not exceeding 3mm over a 2m area. Naturally, the surface should be vacuumed and totally free of debris before fitting begins. Hot pipes should be well insulated to prevent localised hotspots, which can cause wood flooring to warp or shrink.

As wood is a natural substance, it will expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity. That’s why when a wood floor is fitted, expansion gaps need to be left wherever the boards meet a wall, structural support, stairs, breakfast bar, fireplace, central heating pipe…etc. Gaps must also be considered at doorways to allow for the differing expansion between rooms. Place spacers at regular intervals when fitting and then remove them before skirting boards, beading or trims are put in place. Allow a 2mm gap for every metre span of the floor with a minimum of 10-15mm gap regardless. For areas over 5m in width, extra provisions should be made for expansion.

Colour variation is the natural beauty and variations in colour that occur in real wood. To ensure the overall effect has a good balance of colour and details, take care to blend planks from several packs across the entire room.

Yes – but only if it is fully stuck down.

You can float, glue or secret nail Berkeley flooring.

Berkeley flooring has tongue and groove joints.

We generally wouldn’t recommend using engineered flooring in a bathroom.

We generally recommend 10% wastage, however, this can be impacted by the room shape, laying style and other factors so always check with your installer first.